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Pensacola native Brooke Parkhurst
PHOTO BY BEN TWINGLEY |
To say that
Brooke Parkhurst is an epicurean, or
as she calls herself, “a foodie,” is
an understatement. While most
children’s milestones are measured
with stories of first steps, first
words and school accomplishments,
the 26-year-old’s life is measured
by food-related achievements.
At age 3, when
her toddler peers were munching
macaroni and cheese, she was
savoring succulent lobster that she
ordered herself from the menu at the
Pensacola Country Club.
“She couldn’t
pronounce some letters, so she said,
‘Wobstah, please,’ ” said Suzanne
Parkhurst, Brooke’s mom and food
muse.
“When she was four or five, we’d go
to the Dainty Del (restaurant) after
church, and she’d order fish,’’ said
Suzanne, a Pensacola native who now
lives in Blowing Rock, N.C. “She
very politely asked the waitress,
‘Pardon me, ma’am. Is the fish
fresh? Is it filleted?’”
So it is no
surprise to Suzanne or to anyone
else who knows Brooke that she is
grabbing headlines as a New York
dinner diva. Nor is it unexpected
that she has found fame with a
popular blog and is wrapping up a
debut novel about her exploits in
the Big Apple, while penning an
entertainment and cooking guide with
boyfriend James Briscione — a
Pensacola-native-turned-gourmet-chef.
“Brooke has a
natural flair for cooking beautiful
meals and presenting them at the
table,’’ said Suzanne, who admits
that covering the food beat during
her 20 years as writer for the
Pensacola News Journal helped
nurture that natural talent. “It
looks very artistic, and I didn’t
teach her that.’’
During an
interview from her SoHo apartment in
New York City, Brooke said she
believes her new cooking and
entertaining guide, “Fresh
Affairs,’’ will help transform
20-to-30-somethings into naturals at
throwing big-city soirées even if
they initially lack the savvy and
creativity to pull it off.
“It’s about how we live and how we
entertain,’’ Brooke said about
throwing what her friends say are
“unforgettable parties.’’
The guide
combines her passion for
entertaining, decorating and wine
with James’ flare for creating
simple, succulent meals.
A Washington High
School graduate, James taps into 10
years of combined experience as a
chef de cuisine at Birmingham,
Ala.’s premier Frank Stitt’s
Highlands Bar and Grill and as a
banquet chef at New York’s Daniel —
one of the nation’s most prestigious
restaurants — to create recipes for
the book of “food that focuses on
pristine local ingredients,
streamlined preparations and bold
flavors.’’
“I really like
simple, country-style food like
you’d see in the countryside of
France,’’ the 26-year-old said
during a phone interview while
taking a quick break at the busy New
York restaurant. “They live with
what they have, and that breeds
seasonality into their food that I
really love.’’
Tips in the guide
reflect Brooke’s “anti-Martha”
philosophy.
“I think that cooking and
entertaining should be about having
fun and making mistakes, and
memorable, yet sometimes messy,
food,’’ she said. “I did the prim
and proper thing before I knew
better. Now, I mix it up. Serve foie
gras with grits. Dress up mullet
with a reduction sauce. Pass out the
week’s saucy newspaper headlines to
your mother’s mannerly Sunday brunch
friends (that’ll get the
conversation going). In that way,
I’m a ‘high/low’ cook and
entertainer with a saucy sense of
fun.’’
Brooke’s
childhood friend Lacy
Harrell-Phillips agrees.
“We got to be with them last
Christmas in Seaside,’’ said
Phillips, 27, of Dallas. She grew up
with Brooke in Pensacola. “They
(Brooke and James) have such
chemistry between them in the
kitchen. They’re very sophisticated,
but fun. They’re lighthearted with
cooking, but they pay attention to
the ingredients and how they are
preparing food.’’
FACT-BASED
FICTION
Because entertaining comes so
naturally, writing the guide has
evolved instinctively, Brooke said.
“It’s much easier than fiction,’’
she said. “With fiction, it’s just
you and a blank piece of paper.’’
She should know. Brooke’s first
tome, “Belle of New York,” will be
published by Scribner Publishing, a
division of Simon & Schuster, and
was inspired by her popular blog,
“Belle in the Big the Apple.’’
Similar to the
blog, according to the industry
newsletter Publisher’s Lunch, the
book reveals the “musings of a
beautiful Southern debutante who
comes to New York and lands a job in
the mosh pit newsroom of a highly
conservative cable network while
reveling in the hedonistic pleasures
of the city.’’
You guessed it:
Food or at least high-profile dates
at some of the ritziest New York
eating establishments are central to
the theme.
Although it’s
fiction, it’s based on Brooke’s
real-life experience as a production
assistant at Fox News headquarters,
an experience that ended in “total
disillusionment,’’ and about the
news ethics of the company.
“I quit at age 23 and began my life
as a temp worker,’’ she said.
All her life, she
had planned to follow the journalism
paths of her mother and sister,
Sloane Stephens Cox; and that of her
late grandfather, Braden Ball,
30-year publisher of the News
Journal.
“And then
suddenly, I’m a temp, and I’d go
home after an empty and fruitless
day,’’ she said.
That career derailment steered her
onto the promising book-writing
track.
Brooke sold her
first book before it was even
written, thanks to her hip blog
posts that caught the attention of
media such as Gawker, Wonkette,
Salon.com, the BBC, Corrierre della
Sera and the New York Post.
“Belle’’ is expected to hit book
stores in the fall of 2007.
“Her novel sale
was indeed quite a unique triumph,
because new writers almost always
have to show a full manuscript in
order to even get editorial
consideration in publishing
houses,’’ said Brooke’s agent, Bill
Contardi, of New York-based Brandt &
Hochman Literary Agents.
“What worked in
Brooke’s favor were her ongoing blog
and the distinctive and entertaining
voice of that blog,’’ he said.
Although “Fresh
Affairs’’ has not been submitted to
Scribner, “It has been discussed by
them with enthusiasm, and they are
poised to consider it as soon as
‘Belle’ is finished and the proposal
is ready,’’ Contardi said.
“Scribner has an excellent track
record with cooking and entertaining
books, (such as) ‘Joy of Cooking,’ ”
so Brooke’s youthful and Southern
slant to the cuisine of living and
loving will be in stellar company.
It really has potential to be the
beginning of a Brooke brand — both
in fiction and nonfiction.”
In her genes
Brooke credits her mom, as well as a
“foodie’’ family, for infusing her
with the idea that quality food and
quality times go hand-in-hand.
“I associate food
with different occasions and
different family members’ homes,’’
she said.
“Aunt Christi is well known for her
black-bottom pie and other desserts.
Aunt Colleen is pickled shrimp. My
grandmother (Theda Ball) is gumbo;
and my grandfather was collard
greens and black-eyed peas.’’
And family road trips conjure up
memories of traveling around the
Southeast so her mom could hunt down
the best regional fare.
“She planned our
vacations around food stops,’’
Brooke said. “Georgia is peaches and
pecan farms; North Carolina is
barbecue.’’
So it was only
natural that during college, while
sailing around the islands off of
Mallorca, Spain, with a group of
Argentines, Brooke insisted that the
crew stop at ports known for
delicious, regional food.
“I made them dock so I could take
the dinghy into the town square and
buy fresh tomatoes, greens, bread,
herbs, cheeses, cured meats, local
wines, homemade pastries or
ensaimadas,’’ she said. “I would
then buy fish at the port and
prepare a meal for the entire
crew.’’
When Brooke came to Pensacola for
the birth of her niece, Shelby, only
to be chased away to Birmingham by
Hurricane Dennis, she ended up
weathering the storm dining in the
city’s finest eateries, including
Highlands Bar and Grill.
As she was
inspecting the menu, she ran across
a familiar name from her childhood
and asked the waiter if the chef was
from Pensacola. The chef turned out
to be James.
“It was a
startling moment because the last
time I saw him, he was 10 years
old,’’ Brooke said. “We were
sweethearts at Camp Beckwith, an
Episcopal church camp.’’
And when he came
out of the kitchen door to see her,
“so tall and handsome in his white
chef’s jacket and smelling like
fried oysters,’’ Brooke said she
fell in love.
“Our first date
was the next day at the Pepper Place
farmer’s market in downtown
Birmingham,’’ she said. “We caught
up with the past 15 years over
sniffing peaches and feeling
tomatoes. Food is the running
storyline of my life.’’
Advice from
James:
When it comes
to hors d’oeuvres, easy, inexpensive
and impressive isn’t always so easy
to come by. If you want to impress
with small bites, you’ve got to
invest something — either time or
money.
That’s not to
say that you’ve got to blow your
whole food budget before anyone sits
at the table. You might have to buy
the $12-a-pound mushrooms, but
you’ll need half a pound or less.
Here are some ideas or “star
ingredients” that always make for a
memorable cocktail hour.
WILL COST
YOU TIME
Soups: Serve as
an hors d’oeurve in a small cup or
shot glass.
Pimento Cheese:
This classic Southern spread is
always a hit. It takes a little time
to make it from scratch, but can be
done way in advance.
Lucky rolls:
You’ve probably got more than half
of the ingredients in your cupboard
right now. So if you’ve got the
time, whip some up for your next
party.
WILL COST
YOU MONEY
Meats: Can get
a little pricey as an hors d’oeurve
because you only want the best cuts
for bite-sized portions.
Seafood:
Luckily you can catch a break on
seafood prices by buying local, but
don’t be cheap. Once again, only the
best here.
Specialty
items: (aka our favorites!) Things
like foie gras and truffle oil can
run up the bill a bit, but they sure
will be the hit of the party.
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James Brisione and Brooke Parkhurst shop for fresh vegetables at the Union
Square Organic Market in New York City. |
Diva's Dude
A food gene
runs through James Briscione’s DNA,
too.
But his mother
Jane Briscione said he didn’t
inherit it from her side of the
family tree, although she tried to
nurture his fascination for cooking.
“He always
wanted to be by my side when I made
chocolatechip cookies,’’ said Jane,
56, of Pensacola.
But her son
mostly drew inspiration from his
father John’s Italian side of the
family. His late grandparents, who
lived in New Jersey, were great
Italian cooks, Jane said.
“When his Nana
died, all he asked for were her
recipes and pasta maker.’’
James started
cooking at age 16, the same year he
started working at the upscale
Jubilee’s Restaurant on Pensacola
Beach, the same year his grandmother
passed away.
“I missed being
with her behind the stove,’’ he
said. “But I have a lot of her great
recipes and traditions that began
with her.
“Nana taught my
father how to make lasagna and sweet
Italian sausage and peppers,’’ he
said “And I remember the big Sunday
dinners at her house in New Jersey
meant chicken cacciatore and buttery
mashed potatoes.’’
James
cultivated his love for fine food
while working at Jubilee’s, which
was damaged during Hurricane Ivan,
through high school and during the
summers of his freshman and
sophomore years at Samford
University in Birmingham.
“That’s the
only reason I’m doing this now,
because that was my only
introduction to the restaurant
world,’’ he said. This summer, he
moved to New York to be with his
childhood sweetheart, Brooke
Parkhurst, and for a job as a chef
in the exclusive catering division
Feasts & Fetes at Daniel in New
York.
But before
landing in New York, on the
doorsteps of his epicurean roots, he
honed his abilities as the chef de
cuisine at Fran Stitt’s Highlands
Bar and Grill in Birmingham.
While working
for Stitt, a James Beard
award-winning chef, he said he
gained access to some of the
nation’s top kitchens. He teamed
with chefs Kerry Heffernan, Michael
Romano, Gabriel Kreuther, Claudia
Flemming and Tom Colicchio. In
November 2005, James was featured in
the Great Regional Chefs of America
dinner at the James Beard House.
Landing in New
York had always been a goal. But
getting a job at Daniels, a girl and
book deal at the same time is
destiny, he said.
“This is the
epicenter of the culinary world,’’
he said. “It’s been a lot of fun
working on ‘Fresh Affairs’ with
Brooke. She’s my greatest sounding
board for ideas.’’
Mom and dad
couldn’t be more proud.
“We are
thrilled and pleased,’’ Jane said.
“James helped Frank Stitt work on a
cookbook and had experience that I
believe helped him be brave enough
to step out and take this big
step.’’
BROOKE’S HOLIDAY PARTY TIPS
Jamie and I try to keep our
get-togethers as intimate as
possible — dinner parties are
limited to eight people — but the
holidays present a unique set of
problems, with so many people who
need to be seen in such a small
amount of time. We may go over our
expense — and friend — budget from
Thanksgiving to New Year’s, but at
least we do it in style. Here’s how
we do it:
Your People: Dinner party, 8
people;
holiday cocktail, 30 people.
Guests of a Certain Persuasion:
Every persuasion — mix up your guest
list for maximum drama and fun. You
want different professions,
backgrounds and talents (hmmmm …)
represented in your living room,
backyard and at the big round table.
I don’t have any strict rules about
the girl/guy ratio at my soirees,
but I still keep in mind that people
are coming to my fetes with the hope
of scoring a number.
Deck the Halls: Forget formal,
and think casual, yet elegant food
as decoration (apples, citrus, dried
spices such as cinnamon sticks, star
anise, cardamom seeds) on your
buffet and mantel. Inject your “New
Year’s Cocktail” with a little
nostalgia and humor by decorating
side tables and windowsills with
terribly embarrassing highschool
pictures simply framed alongside
yearbooks and other awkward teenage
memorabilia. Everything looks
gorgeous compared to your freshman
mug!
Plot Your Way to Perfection:
Preparation! Preparation!
Preparation! Starting at noon for a
party at 8 p.m. is impossible.
Impossible. You’ll end up so
stressed by the time your 30 guests
arrive, you won’t remember if it’s
New Year’s or Easter.
Invitations — 2-3 weeks prior.
Menu planning — 2 weeks prior.
Grocery shopping — 2 days prior.
Flowers — Same-day morning delivery.
Wine & booze — open all the liquor
bottles and about half the wine
bottles the day of the party, check
martini and wine glasses for water
spots. Food prep — begin at 10 a.m.
to allow yourself time to also place
candles, spruce the house, flowers
and yourself.
Music — turn on the tunes an hour
before guests arrive to get you in
the mood.
Boudoir Drink: Do like Cary Grant
and drink a single glass of
champagne before the night gets
under way — it’ll calm your nerves
and reassure you that everything
will go just swimmingly.
Games: None — if you actually
like your guests (and you count a
few interesting people among your
friends), you won’t have to rely on
trite, contrived games. Conversation
— and a well-stocked bar — should be
more than enough to get your party
started (and keep it going).
Ipod Shuffle: Although Mariah
Carey’s “All I Want For Christmas”
is on my Ipod’s heavy repeat (guilty
pleasure), we’re going to keep her
out of your party tunes. Go to the
updated classics that will have
everyone humming instead of griping.
Think Sinatra, Dean Martin and Louis
Armstrong.
Lighting: Turn off the overheads
and twist the dimmers. You want
soft, flattering light, whether it
comes from recessed fixtures or side
lamps and candles scattered around
your home. Outdoors, consider
lighting from the ground up: Place
votive candles in a wide circle both
around the chimenea and the hors
d’oeuvres table. Everyone will look
radiant.
Seating: You should always have
more seating options than guests,
thus facilitating one-on-one and
small group conversations. With our
New Year’s Day party, guests will
naturally gravitate to standing
around the chimenea. Make sure there
are chairs, stools — heck, even logs
— placed outside your home and
within distance of the fire’s
warmth.
Thoughts on Presentation
The food that I tend to cook at home
is rustic or country-style so the
presentation always reflects that
feeling. I love large platters and
enamel casseroles that get placed in
the center of the table. This
doesn’t mean the food can be
haphazardly thrown on the table,
though.
“Family-style” service sometimes
requires greater attention to detail
than individual plates. Food must be
arranged just-so, to keep from
looking sloppy. Herbs and vegetables
that were used in the preparation of
the dish always look great to
decorate or ‘garnish’ a serving
piece. Sauces must be applied
carefully, so they don’t run off the
tray and onto your guests. Often
serving sauces on the side is the
best option- allowing each person to
have as much or as little as they’d
like.
Desserts
When it comes to dessert, I’m a
minimalist because I’ve over-exerted
myself in the preceding courses.
Simply prepared fruits are always
beautiful whether they’re baked in
tarts or a galette, bubbling in
their own syrupy juices under a
sweet, crumbly cover in cobblers or
layered raw with flavored whipped
creams or mousses.
Often I’ll forgo the sweets
altogether and treat my guests and
myself to variety of artisanal
cheeses (I get this from Brooke — I
think she could eat cheese for
breakfast, lunch and dinner).
What to drink with dessert? Of
course, there is no right or wrong
answer here. Drink what you like.
You don’t have to change wines just
because you’re changing courses
(that big red that went so well with
your steak is just fine with
chocolate cake, too). If you do want
something else, some my favorites
are:
Moscato d’Asti (sweet and little
bubbly), I’ve never known anyone who
didn’t love it. Serve it with
anything.
Port Wine- nothing goes better
with a plate of cheese… or
chocolate!
Sauternes- fantastic with fruit
based desserts
Diva's
Recipes
James’ famous Pimento Cheese
Shopping List:
2 lbs. red bell peppers
2 lbs. cheddar cheese (sharp or
mild), grated — yes, by hand! no
shortcuts here
1 cup mayonnaise
8 ounces cream cheese (room temp)
Sriracha garlic/chili sauce
Preheat oven to 400 degrees
To roast the peppers: Toss
peppers in a bowl with olive oil,
salt and pepper. Lay out on a sheet
pan and place in oven until the skin
is blistered and the flesh tender.
Remove from oven and set aside.
When the peppers are cool enough
to handle, peel away the skin
completely. You may need to use the
edge of a knife to scrape away the
skin in places. Tear the peppers
open and remove all the seeds. Do
not rinse the peppers — this washes
away essential oils and will
diminish the peppers’ flavor.
Place the peppers in a food
processor and pulse until the
peppers have a smooth consistency,
but not to a smooth paste. Small
chunks of peppers should remain.
Remove the pureed peppers to a large
stainless mixing bowl.
Stir in the 2 pounds of grated
cheese and the softened cream
cheese. Beat vigorously with a
wooden spoon until well combined.
Stir in the mayo, some salt,
pepper, a pinch of sugar and the
sriracha (start with just a
teaspoon). I really like sriracha (a
Southeast Asian hot sauce) here
because of its subtle sweetness and
assertive heat. It adds a complexity
to this dip that a regular hot sauce
cannot bring.
Technically, you are done at this
point. Simple, right? Not so fast,
my friend. This is where it gets a
little tricky. You have got to taste
at this point. Really, critically
taste and adjust. It usually takes
me five to six rounds of seasoning
before I get it just where I want
it. So grab a partner, a couple
spoons and get
to it …
Celery Root and Wild Mushroom
Soup
Serves 6
Shopping list:
1 large celery root or celeriac
1 bunch (3) medium leeks dark green
tops removed
1 pound Crimini mushrooms
1 pkg. dried Porcini Mushroom sliced
(optional)
1 head Garlic
Chicken Stock/Broth sodium free
(optional)
Heavy whipping cream (optional)
Kosher salt and fresh black pepper
Red wine or sherry vinegar
Bay leaf
Fresh thyme
Trim away roots and top from
celery root and peel with vegetable
peeler, revealing white flesh
underneath. Cut the root into
quarters, then slice to 1/4 inch
thickness. Put all pieces into a
small sauce pot and just cover with
water or chicken stock. Add a pinch
of salt, dried porcini (about 2
pieces), 1 bay leaf, and 2 stems of
fresh thyme. Put onto stove on high
heat and boil until fork tender.
Cut leeks in half and thinly
slice. Place cut leeks into a large
bowl of cool water and stir well,
then let sit for 5 minutes. This
will wash off all the sand and allow
it to settle to the bottom.
Grab your biggest sauté pan and
put it on the stove over medium
heat. Add 1 large tablespoon of
olive oil, 2 cloves of crushed
garlic, and the leeks. The leeks
must be lifted out of the water to
make sure no dirt gets back into
them. Cook until the leeks are very
soft and aromatic.
While the leeks are cooking and
the celery root is simmering — brush
away and dirt from the mushroom and
cut them in half (quarters if they
are large). Add to the sauté pan of
leeks once they have softened.
When the mushrooms are fully
cooked (easily pierced by a fork),
remove from heat and set aside. Put
the celery root and all of their
cooking liquid into a blender, puree
until smooth. This may have to be
done in two batches. Leave half of
the puree and in the blender and add
the mushrooms, again — puree until
smooth. Using the other half of the
celery root puree, repeat this
process return all the soup is
pureed. You may have to add some hot
chicken stock or water while
pureeing.
Add the soup to a heavy-bottomed
pot and turn on medium heat. Bring
the soup back to a simmer and thin
with heavy cream or more stock, if
needed. Adjust the seasoning — salt,
pepper and a little splash or red
wine or sherry vinegar.
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