Embracing art, culture, and cuisine in Puerta Vallarta
By Magi Thomley Williams / Photos by Jackson Williams
I was smitten the moment we were greeted by whales breaching the powerful Pacific directly off our balcony as our concierge introduced my husband and me to the unobstructed ocean view at the Grand Venetian Resort in Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico. Each morning, as I savored my first cups of coffee, I was surrounded by a symphony of birds welcoming the new day and watched fishing boats out for a pre-dawn catch in a moonlit skyline untouched by light pollution.
My husband was alarmed when he saw a crocodile sunbathing in a busy public park, but residents didn’t show any concern over the formidable reptile. At breakfast, I was startled as a large bird settled on our table one morning; a local quickly reminded me that I was in the bird’s home. That’s how Puerto Vallartians live their lives. Respectful of native habitat, plants, animals and culture. They don’t appreciate visitors who want to change the way of life they have enjoyed for generations: hard work, slow pace and lively family gatherings. Don’t even think about complaining about the roosters crowing at the crack of dawn.
We attempted to speak Spanish and residents often spoke English in return as a show of mutual respect and acceptance. The Spanglish also made for a few shared laughs. I was surprised how quickly I remembered words and phrases from high school Spanish while immersed in the language and culture.
My brother-in-law and sister-in-law, David and Joann Williams, have visited PV many times and will soon become permanent residents. Already integrated into the community, they were knowledgeable and gracious travel companions.
At Joann’s suggestion, we visited the Galleria Dante one afternoon and spent the evening at Di Vino Dante: both owned by a Canadian expat family. Galleria Dante promotes an intriguing selection of curated local artworks while Di Vino Dante restaurant and rooftop bar offer tapas, upscale dining, local wine, craft cocktails and of course tequila in a welcoming hacienda-style villa.
Dinner at La Madalena was an extravagant dining experience with attentive service and choices like fresh prawns, steak and lobster. Our server offered to prepare the bone marrow for us in a traditional Mexican style. “¡Delicioso!” I was directed to a dish combining three of my culinary favorites: scallops, bacon and cilantro. Bespoke cocktails were concocted tableside. Another exceptional dining choice is Kaiser Maximilian Restaurant and Café for a casual experience curated by owner Andreas Rupprechter in an elegant and historic setting.
Galería Indígena was one of our favorite stops. There we purchased an original painting by Romeo De La Cruz after our engaging conversation with Ignacio Jacobo S., also known as Nacho, and proprietor of the gallery. Nacho’s knowledge of the art, the artists and the history of his native town represented in the shop was profound.
PV residents express an appreciation for art, even in public spaces, including sidewalks and “los baños” (bathrooms). They embrace and share native culture in dance, paintings, beadwork, jewelry and storytelling. The Malecón Boardwalk beachfront market, bursting with eclectic public art installations, also offers food and drink options, tequila tastings, indigenous dance performances, native crafts and entertainment.
Thanks to David’s expert mountain driving skills, we took a scenic 25-minute ride to the Jardín Botánico de Vallarta. The gardens encompass 79 acres of indigenous plants and non-indigenous plants, including vanilla, coca, orchids and agave. Ensconced among the foliage, visitors find koi ponds, butterflies, sculptures, a chapel for contemplation and a restaurant with expansive garden and river views.
Puerto Vallarta is a stunningly beautiful place and home to generous, thoughtful, creative and kind people. We can’t wait to visit again soon.
