The magic of Mexico’s Lake Chapala
By Magi Thomley Williams Photos by Jackson Williams
From the moment we arrived along the shores of Lake Chapala, Mexico wrapped itself around us with a kind of gentle magic — soft, fragrant and impossibly welcoming. Each morning began the same way: bougainvillea peeking through the open window, geraniums nodding in the garden, owls and roosters calling out in a quirky duet and church bells rolling across the rooftops. It was a sensory awakening.
We made our home base at La Nueva Posada, the romantic, storyfilled boutique hotel created by Canadian Michael Eager. The place is charming and effortless — warm staff, thoughtful amenities and a lakefront courtyard perfect for dining or happy hour. Over coffee, Michael shared the love story that kept a university student on holiday in Ajijic — the story that keeps him there decades later. A romance that is still at the heart of the inn.
Our days unfolded along the Carretera a Chapala, the narrow eight-meter spine of road that hugs the north side of the lake, connecting Jocotepec, Ajijic and Chapala. A ciclopista runs beside it, where walkers and cyclists can stop and take in the scenery. This region sits on the same latitude and shares a microclimate similar to Hawaii, with low humidity, lush foliage, abundant wildlife and friendly people. All of this without the crowds and the price tag of Hawaii.
In Ajijic, evenings were for the malecón, a riverwalk alive with entertainment, activities and music. We’d settle onto the deck, cocktails in hand, watching the sun melt into the lake. The sky turned vibrant colors while local families strolled by, and we felt ourselves slipping into the town’s calm, hospitable rhythm. The locals here live with a “let it be” vibe that’s contagious.
One morning we ventured to Monte Coxala Spa, perched above the lake like a sanctuary. Here a couple’s spa day is luxurious yet surprisingly affordable — thermal pools, sweeping views and treatments that indulge the soul.
Chapala offered its own charms. We lingered over lunch at Restaurant Isla Cozumel, which served the best of many margaritas I enjoyed on the trip. Then we wandered into the weekly tianguis, one of the lively local markets found in towns across Mexico. The stalls burst with color — handwoven textiles, carved wooden toys, fragrant spices and fresh foods. Artisans called out with warm smiles, encouraging us to taste, touch and embrace their traditions. It was noisy, joyful and irresistible.
Dinner one night took us to Bruno’s, a highly recommended, locally owned restaurant. The steaks arrived sizzling, perfectly seasoned and generously portioned. We made room — barely — for chocolate cake and Mexican ice cream, and I’m still thinking about the hibiscus margarita.
Everywhere we turned, art appeared — murals, sculptures, handcrafted treasures. Arresting, expressive and deeply tied to the land and its people.
By the time we packed our bags, we understood why so many travelers come here and never leave. Ajijic, Jocotepec and Chapala aren’t just destinations. They’re a feeling — gentle, colorful, romantic and kind. A place where time slows, beauty unfolds and Mexico reveals its magical self.
