Enchanting Scotland: Soulful, natural, historic
By Allison McCrory / Photos by Kendall McCrory
Scotland is a land of castles, lush green rolling hills, history-rich cities and lots and lots of sheep.
Think Outlander scenes with stone buildings and walls, since the country historically relied on natural stone rather than wood. In urban areas, such as Edinburgh’s city center, preservation is paramount. The result is a visual, medieval-inspired feast.
While in Edinburgh, don’t miss the castle, which sits atop an extinct volcano. Be sure to buy castle entry tickets weeks in advance, and if high tea in the Queen Anne Tea Room is calling, book the ticket for both.
Check out the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Great Hall, built in 1511 for King James VI, and the tiny room where Mary, Queen of Scots, gave birth to James VI, who united the monarchies of England and Scotland and commissioned the King James Bible.
Be sure to stroll down Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, a history-laden, partly cobblestone road connecting the hilltop castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, where the king conducts official business. Along the way, check out St. Giles Cathedral and The Real Mary King’s Close, a maze of hidden streets below the city. Historical tours by costumed guides are a favorite for tourists.
Harry Potter fans will drink in the inspirations for Hogwarts and Diagon Alley, just outside the Royal Mile. The Jacobite, the train that inspired the Hogwarts Express, can be found further north, running an 84-mile round-trip loop between two Highlands destinations with beautiful views along the way.
For those looking for adventure near the city, hike Arthur’s Seat! Depart from Holyrood Park for a 30- to 45-minute hike to the top, which boasts 360-degree views of Edinburgh. The return trip only takes about 30 minutes.
If heat-averse, be sure to book a hotel with air conditioning, as many in the United Kingdom don’t have it.
Breathtaking Highlands
For a completely different landscape from bustling Edinburgh, head north to the Highlands — where summer days can stretch from 4:15 a.m. to 10 p.m. and multipeaked massifs (mountain masses) break through carpets of green to create ideal hiking conditions. Freshwater lakes (or lochs, as the Scottish say) and saltwater coastlines are abundant, which means seafood is, too.
There is much to see and do in this lost-in-time region of Scotland. Castles, castle ruins, colorful seafront buildings, fairy pools, waterfalls, close to 800 islands and even the annual Isle of Skye Highland Games are among the attractions. Some of the UK’s best hiking takes place from May through October in the Highlands.
Scotland is a country steeped in history. It’s not unlikely that you’ll encounter a bagpipe player decked out in a kilt serenading pedestrians. Many Highlands pubs, some centuries old, host live folk music. The Gaelic language, with roots tracing back to the first millennium, is still spoken in parts of Scotland, with a recent effort to preserve the language.
Wildlife is abundant in this country, where sheep outnumber people and shepherding is still a career path. Cattle are abundant as well, with Highland cattle, with their shaggy coats and distinctive horns, an iconic symbol of the region. Whales, seals and dolphins can be spotted in the waters surrounding Scotland. Fitting for such a magical place, the national animal of Scotland is the unicorn.
Scottish dining is similar to American, but there are interesting twists and standout dishes. Don’t leave Scotland without partaking of Cullen skink, a delicious, smoky, creamy Scottish soup. Cranachan, typically considered Scotland’s national dessert, combines fresh raspberries, whipped cream, toasted oats, honey and a dash of Scotch.
Haggis is a breakfast staple whose ingredients may be better left on the down low. Let’s just say the Scottish let nothing go to waste! A vegetarian option is typically available for more thin-skinned diners.
Scottish pie is a hearty, savory entrée sure to fill you up. Restaurants all seem to feature a full Scottish breakfast, also known as a fry-up. While all seem to include eggs, beans, bacon and tomato slices, look for add-ons such as haggis, tatie scones (unleavened flatbread) and black pudding (like haggis, ingredients best left unspoken!).
Porridge, made with the oats that have fueled generations of Scottish residents, is also a Scottish breakfast staple.
Of course, Scotch is the country’s drink of choice, with tasting flights frequently available at whisky bars, hotels and historic pubs.
Mother-daughter adventuring
Impulsivity isn’t my MO. But that changed this spring. Health issues prompted thoughts of “I wonder how long I’ll be able to handle traveling around the world?”
My husband’s long golf trip and my California daughter’s spaces between work contracts spawned a thought: “What about a mother-daughter trip to Scotland?” After all, a whopping two well-traveled people mentioned it was the most beautiful place they’d ever visited. A call to my globe-trotting, former travel-agent friend for Scotland tour tips proved fruitful. “Rabbie’s is by far the best. The guides are excellent.”
A perusal of the Rabbie’s website revealed June and July tours were discounted. Who can resist a sale? So voila! Just like that, Scotland here we come!
Fast forward to mid-August: We met in Atlanta on Chik-fil-A’s Cow Appreciation Day. My daughter’s first job was at Chik-fil-A, so of course we donned our pink lined construction paper ears and black spots, redeemed our free meals and boarded a red-eye to Edinburgh. Our only luggage was a carry-on and backpack each since that was the Rabbie’s limit. “It’s kind of liberating” was my daughter’s cup-half-full assessment.
Our trip was pretty magical — from the otherworldly Scottish relics, castles, fairy groves and landscapes to the Harry Potter inspirations, bringing back fond memories of my children’s youth with four bookmarks in one shared book. As my friend predicted, the guide was knowledgeable (and a bit eccentric) and the people of Scotland were hospitable and unassuming, going out of their way to help. And a week of uninterrupted time with my adult daughter — priceless!
